Vintage Red Lip Makeup Tutorial With Esther of The Sisters Florist

Meet the gorgeous Esther, you may know her from her regular job as one of The Sisters At Engadine Florist. She’s playing model for us for the next few weeks as we roll out a brand new series on Polka Dot Bride, one that has been in my head for SO long and finally put into play this year!

I rounded up a dream team – photographer Amy Nelson Blain, makeup artist Megan Vaughan of Makeup By Megan, hair stylist Melissa Cauchi of Melissa Cauchi Hairdressing along with gorgeous gowns from Savvy Brides and jewels from Samantha Wills & APM Monaco.

Why red lips? Well, this is just the start. Red lips are a favourite of mine and I think they look gorgeous on a wedding day. The absolutely amazing team pulled together three different bridal makeup looks that I’ll be showing you over the next few weeks with a complete tutorial on each.  I’m a huge fan of hiring professionals for hair and makeup (because, you know, I’d rather not drop lipstick on my chin on my wedding day) but if perhaps you aren’t, or want to explore this look for your own next special occasion, we have everything, including the full list of products (both hair and makeup!) used on Esther, right here for you!

Megan shares her expertise below – stay tuned, we have two more looks to go (and they’re all packed full of helpful hints and tricks from the experts).

Begin with a clean, fresh canvas. I cleanse all my clients skin with Bioderma Crealine on a cotton pad. Make sure that all makeup is removed from the face including any mascara and eyeliner caught in the lash line.

This is where most girls reach for their eye creams and moisturisers. Too much product sitting on the skin under the makeup decreases the longevity and increases the chance of shine and creasing later on. Unless my client has extremely dry skin I will never moisturise AND prime. If this is a concern, purchase a primer with moisturising properties. My favourite is Make Up Store Skin Serum. It is enriched with ginko, bilboa and rosemary to give you an even and silky base.

Beauty Blender, M.A.C 130 Brush, Chanel Mat Lumiere Foundation, M.A.C Moisturecover Concealer, M.A.C Blotting Powder, Laura Mercier Eye Basics in Linen, Urban Decay Naked Eyeshadow Palette in  Sin + Buck, Harlotte Divine Line Liquid Liner in Jet Black, The Balm What’s Your Type? Mascara in Black Noir, Eylure Naturalites False Lashes: Natural Texture, Laura Mercier Brow Definer in Soft, Makeup For Ever Aqua Brow, Benefit Benetint,  Napoleon Perdis Lip Liner in Roccco Red, Giorgio Armani Lip Maestro in #400

Using a Beauty Blender, sponge a light coat of foundation on to the face starting from the nose and blending outwards across the cheeks and onto the ear lobes, down over the lips, under the chin, and onto the beginning of the neck, and then up over the eyebrows and forehead into the hairline. The general rule when applying foundation is to begin where you need the most product (which is the middle of the face) and blend outwards so the coverage becomes sheerer and blends into nothing when it reaches the outer parameter of your face. This will ensure you don’t get those attractive foundation lines around the ears, jaw and neck, and that cakey makeup look in your hair line. Once this is done, load your foundation brush (my favourite is MAC 130 ) with the same foundation and go back over any areas that require a little more coverage.

Using your concealer brush (or fingers if that is your preference) lightly dab foundation on the dark areas on and around your eyes, in the creases of your nose around the nostrils, and on any impurities/discolourations including blemishes, veins, pigmentation, rosacea etc. Remember less is more. Slowly build your coverage until you reach the desired level and blend the edges to ensure you can’t distinguish where you have concealed.

The secret to eye makeup longevity is to stop the natural oil secretion on your eyelids from breaking down and moving the makeup. The best way to achieve this is by applying an eye base or primer. My favourite is Laura Mercier Eye Basics. Pat this onto the lid before applying your eye shadow and eyeliner and your eye makeup will not move.

Apply a matte finish foundation to create that authentic 1940’s look and conceal.

Base the eye and lightly dust the lid with blotting powder to ease blending. Apply a light pearlescent, off-white shadow to the lid only.

Blend a soft brown shadow into the crease.

Blend the same soft brown shadow into the lower lash line.

Draw a black liquid line from the inner corner of the lid to the outer, ensuring the line is as thin as possible from the inner corner to the middle of the lid, then gradually reaches your desired maximum thickness at the outer corner. Extend the line a little way beyond the corner, flicking it upward in a gentle curve.  your desired maximum thickness at the outer corner. Extend the line a little way beyond the corner, flicking it upward in a gentle curve.

If you are using a pen, hold it an angle, pointing downward and use a light hand as pressing gives an overly thick line. If you are using a brush, choose one that is fine and dense, rest your elbow on the table to steady your hand and hold your eyelid taunt to eliminate creases.

If you have deep-set eyes or heavy lids you will need to keep your eyes closed until the liner dries to avoid smudging and transfer.

Curl your top lashes and apply a coat of waterproof mascara top & bottom.

Measure your strip lashes against the width of your lash line and trim accordingly. The correct size should start where your lashes naturally begin at the inner corner of your eye, and stop just a few millimetres short of where your natural lashes finish at the outer corner.

Having the lashes extend too far into and/or past the outer corner of your natural lash line will drag your eyes down instead of lifting them up.

Apply a drop of lash glue onto the back of your hand and gently run the rim of the strip lash through it, paying special attention to the beginning and end.

Wait for the glue to become tacky when touched, then gently position the lashes a couple of millimetres down from the lash roots, inner corner to outer corner.

Once the lashes are positioned correctly, slide them up and into place at the lash root, in the natural gap between your lash line and eyelid.

Applying strip lashes takes practice! Allow enough time to ensure you are not stressed and running late as you attempt to apply them, and do not be discouraged if it takes a few attempts to get it right. I recommend buying a few practice pairs to play with in the lead up to your special event. Like everything in life, practice makes perfect!

Apply a second coat of waterproof mascara pressing the faux lashes into your natural lashes.

Brush brows upward and emphasize the shape using a brow pencil, gel, powder, or an eyeshadow one or two shades darker than your natural colour. Elongate them slightly towards the outer corner. Brows were quite dramatic in this era so ensure they are squared and sharpened, bold and pencilled in.

Lightly dust the face with translucent powder.

Apply a soft peach-beige or rose pink powder blush to the apples of your cheeks.

Take your time drawing a perfect symmetrical lip line with a sharp red lip pencil. Apply a single coat of red lip tint inside the pencil line, and colour over it with the pencil. Use the side of a firm bristled lip brush to apply a matte red lipstick. Begin by tracing the lip liner outline at the cupids bow. Then, while smiling to elongate the lips and create firm lines, start on the inside of the mouth at the outer corners and trace the lip liner until you meet it. Do the same to the bottom lip and fill them in. Gently blot your lips on a tissue and re-apply.

Place your lip liner in the freezer to firm it up before sharpening it. Experiment with different shades of red lipstick on the tip of your finger to find one that suits your colouring.

Apply a sealing agent to keep the look in place.

I love the simply. soft vintage glamour waves that Melissa Cauchi of Melissa Cauchi Hairdressing gave Esther for this look, so now it’s over to Melissa’s tips and tricks!

Babybliss Ceramic Hot Rollers (available at Ry Online), Joico Protect + Shine Serum,  Joico Powerspray Finishing Spray,  Sectioning Clips, Paddle Brush (Available at Ry Online)

This is a great style for medium to thick hair or hair that holds curl well. This look is best achieved with ‘day old’ hair.

Apply setting lotion and comb through. Set a deep part in the hair.

Set hair rollers (or tong) in small sections towards the face. At the back, set the hair directing downwards.

Allow to cool. then using a paddle brush, gently direct the hair in sections and secure with clips. (see photo)

A light mist with hairspray, allow to dry, then gently remove the clips. Another spray of hairspray and your curls have been transformed into vintage waves. The second spray is essential to maintain this look all day.

For a quick achievable variation on this style for everyday, spray hair with setting lotion. Use a tong or straightener to curl the front and side sections around your face. Spray with hairspray, then use a paddle brush to create one wave, leaving the crown back and rest of the sides smooth.

A big thank you to our team of Esther of The Sisters At Engadine Florist, Amy Nelson Blain, Megan Vaughan of Makeup By Megan, Melissa Cauchi of Melissa Cauchi Hairdressing, Mandy from  Savvy Brides and  Samantha Wills & APM Monaco for bringing this shoot to life! Stay tuned, we have more for you next week!

Psst… Want to be involved in our next shoot? Drop us an email!